ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Congratulations! You are about to begin a whole new way of cleaning stalls. It is important that you follow each instruction carefully for proper assembly and operation of your Stall Shi*fter. It is IMPORTANT that you assemble your Shi*fter in a clear area at least 8 feet by 8 feet so you can move around freely and have clear access to tools and parts. You will need to clear an area that has a wall you can use for support in the first steps of the assembly. You will need the following tools and about 30 minutes to complete.

(2) 3/4"   open end or box end wrenches or (2) crescent wrenches

(2) 9/16" open end or box end wrenches

(1) 3/8" nut driver or box end wrench

Step 1

Open the Box and remove all parts. You should have:

(2)     14 or 20 inch wheels.

(1)     Sifting screen assembly

(])      Padded handle assembly w/threaded 1/2" rod, (1) 1/2" lock nut, (1) 1/2" nut & lock washer

(2)     Cross piece assembly w/threaded 1/2" rod, 1/2" metal tube and (1) 1/2" lock nut, (1) 1/2" nut & lock washer

(2)     Outside main crossbar assemblies, 1"x 2" rectangular metal tube pre assembled with rear screen roller hangers, adjustable locking straps and sifting screen-centering guides.

(1)     Aluminum screen roller bearing assembly.

(1)     Inside main crossbar assembly including (2) inside main crossbars, (2) 4" rear wheels and wheel mount supports, pre wired gear drive motor w/connecting rod and crank, front cross brace/motor mount.

(1)     Motor dust shield/switch panel w/ pre-wired control & power cord.

(1)     Zip lock plastic parts bag with:

(1) Red yoke  mounting hardware & 3/8 nut.

(12) 1/4”x 3/4” self drilling hex cap screws

(2) Screen roller assemblies w/3/8 mounting nuts & wing nuts.

(2)     Axle assemblies 4.5' x 1/2"  bolts, flat washers and lock washers

(2)     Handle extenders, flat 1/4 inch black steel, pre-drilled

Motor installation instructions

As of March 2008 we began shipping the Stall Shi*fter with the motor packed un-attached to the motor mount. This prevented breakage during shipment. After opening your Shi*fter box you will need to bolt the motor onto the motor mount before going to assembly step 2.

Unpack the motor and place it on the motor mount  with the 4 carriage bolts provided. (see pictures below)

Place the green wire with the grounding lug on the most convenient bolt as shown.

Note in picture where the ground lug was placed. Use the 4 nuts and lockwashers to tighten the motor down to the motor mount as shown.

Remove all shipping braces and packing material and set aside. Take the inside crossbar assembly and place it against a wall as shown in picture.

                        

Step 3

Locate the center crosspiece assembly and the left outside main crossbar assembly. Remove the acorn nut and lockwasher from the threaded rod and slide the metal tube off of the rod. Slide the end of the threaded rod through the center hole in the left outside main crossbar assembly as shown in the picture. Orient the crossbar so the red locking strap is hanging down on the right as shown in the above picture. Pass the rod through the center hole in the inside crossbar assembly and slide the metal spacer tube over the rod. Push the rod the rest of the way through the tube and then the opposite side of the inside crossbar assembly.

   

Step 4

Next take the right outside main crossbar assembly and slide it over the threaded rod as shown in the picture. Locate the 1/2” acorn nut and lock washer and finger tighten it so that the crossbars, inside and out, are all connected across the center cross piece assembly. The two red locking straps should be facing each other and hanging down.

Step 5

Locate the two front screen roller bearing assembles and remove the wing nut and the first 3/8 hex nut. This will leave the bearing spindle, the bearing and the bearing keeper nut. Make sure the bearing keeper nut is finger tight against the bearing inner race. Slide the threaded spindle through the 3/8 hole in the crossbar assembly from the inside and thread the 3/8 hex nut on to the spindle and tighten it to the crossbar using a 9/16 wrench. Do the same for both sides. Remember the bearings should be on the inside of the crossbars.

     

Step 6

Locate the rear crosspiece assembly and remove the acorn nut and lockwasher from the threaded shaft. Remove the metal tube from the threaded rod and then insert the threaded rod through the hole at the upper end of the left outside main crossbar. Once through the left side, slide the metal tube onto the threaded rod and line the rod up with the hole on the right side crossbar. Push the rod through the hole on the right side and put the 1/2" acorn nut & lock washer on and finger tighten (note: picture shows padded tube not bare metal tube as it should)

  

Step 7

Next take the free end of either the adjustable locking strap and swing it down so that the middle hole is lined up with the threaded end of the front screen roller assembly sticking out from inside crossbar assembly. Slide the hole of the strap onto the threaded end and put the 3/8 wing nut on to hold it in place do the same for both sides.

Step 8

Locate the 4 1/2" axle bolts w/nuts, flat washers and lock washers and the two 14" front wheels. Install the front wheels on the inside of the left and right outside crossbars as follows: Slide the axle bolt through the crossbar from outside to inside. Place a flat washer on the axle then the wheel, and then another flat washer followed by a lock washer and finally the 1/2" nut. Tighten the nut using two 3/4 inch wrenches so that the lock washer is snug tight and the wheel spins freely. Do the same for both sides. Refer to picture if needed.

Step 9

  

Step 10

Now the Shi*fter can be turned onto its wheels. Put your foot on one of the front wheels and pull the rear crosspiece back toward you until the Shi*fter is sitting on all four wheels.

   

Step 11

Locate the screen yoke and stand the screen on end so you can attach it to the screen assembly with the hardware supplied. Attach it as shown in the picture and go to step 12. (note: yoke supplied after 12/12/2006 don't have the pin shown in picture because tie rod ends now have built in pins) 

   

SPECIAL NOTE FOR 2007 DELUXE MODEL ONLY

Screen yokes on the Deluxe model with the long 48" screen are installed upside down from what is shown in the two pictures above of the Little Shifter screen. This raises the rod end by one inch to accomodate the higher tilt on the screen.  Installing the yoke as shown above will cause the screen to jump and make noise. Install the yoke as shown to the left.

            Deluxe Big Wheel Screen Yoke & Rod Position

Note the relationship between the crank collar, the drive shaft, the connecting rod and the screen pull yoke. The Deluxe model should look about like this. The crank collar can be adjusted up and down the crank shaft by loosening the 7/16 locking bolt. It should be adjusted so the connecting rod is as parallel as possible with the stall floor. This allows the screen to travel at a right angle to the drive shaft and parallel to the floor.

 

Step 12

With the Shi*fter in place on all four wheels take the screen and slide it up over the rear screen rollers and onto the two front screen rollers. CAUTION hold it in place or it will slide backward and could hit you and harm you. You must now move to the front and locate the connecting rod. One rod end is attached to the motor drive crank the other is not connected. Slide the un-connected rod pin end through the hole in the screen yoke and Place a 3/8 inch fine thread nut and lockwasher on the pin and tighten snugly  (note: picture shows old style rod end and pin.)

    

Step 13

Locate the two ¼ inch thick 12 inch long black flat handle extender pieces and two 3/8 inch x 2 inch carriage bolts, nuts and lockwashers and (4) ¼ inch by ¾ inch self drilling hex head screws. Place the carriage bolt through the hole in the offset end of the extender and through the top hole in the cross member. Align the piece with the cross member so the top and bottom ¼ inch holes in the extender line up with the ¼ inch holes in the cross member. Snug the 3/8 inch nut to hold the extender in place then use two ¼ inch self drilling screws in the other two holes and tighten them all down. Repeat this process for the other side.

Step 14

Next locate the padded handle tube and threaded rod assembly. Remove the acron nut and lockwasher and Insert the rod through the handle extender then through padded tube and other handle extender. Put the acorn nut and lockwasher back on threaded rod and tighten handle.

Step 15

Locate the motor control panel and power cord/switch assembly and plug the motor plug male connector into the female connector on the switch box. Then take the control panel assembly and place it over the motor across the top front of the Shi*fter. Align the holes in the cover with the threaded holes in the main assembly. Using four ¼” x ¾” self-drilling drive screws and a 3/8 inch nut driver, fasten the control panel to the main assembly.

 
Step 16

Take the power cord hanging down from the switch box assembly and using the plastic tie wraps, route the cable down the outer cross piece to the center then up to the handle at the back of the Shi*fter. The wraps not only route the cable but act as strain relief on the cord.

The Variable Speed motor uses a proprietary Leeson SCR DC motor speed control.  The control is set to limit both high and low speed of the motor. Adjust the black speed control knob on the operator control panel for optimum sifting speed. This speed is between the set limits of about 180 rpm to 450 rpm. The pre-set limit adjustments are sealed inside the dust proof box and cemented into position. Breaking the seal of the adjustment controls inside the box or the seal of the box itself without approval from an authorized Brockwood Farm representative will void the warranty on the motor and the control.

UNDER NORMAL OPERATING CONDITIONS IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO SET THE MOTOR TO THE HIGHEST SPEED.  NORMALLY THE SHI*FTER OPERATES BEST AT 75%TO 90% FULL SPEED SPEED.  OPERATING THE  SHI*FTER AT  FULL SPEED  WILL NOT  EXCEED THE  MOTOR OR CONTROL SPECIFICATIONS AS  THEY ARE  PRESET WITHIN SAFE LIMITS.

Trouble Shooting Section

Symptom: The motor doesn’t come on when I switch it on.

·        Make sure the power cord is plugged into a live receptacle

·        Make sure you connected the motor to the switch (step 13 in assembly)

·        Unplug the motor from the switch and plug it into another known good extension cord, which is plugged into a known good receptacle. (AC Machines only)  If the motor still does not turn the problem is a bad motor. If the motor turns when plugged into a known good source the problem is the switch.

·        On variable speed models there is a red power on indicator on the control panel. If it is not illuminated there is either a blown fuse or the machine is not plugged into a live power source.

·        If the control panel fuse is blown replace it with a 5 amp AGC fuse.

·        If the fuse blows again there is something wrong inside the control box and you will need to call us for further instructions. If you open the DC Control box without consulting us you will void the warranty.

Symptom: The screen works but is making a loud knocking sound.

·        Check for play in the connecting rod connection at the screen.

·        Check for end play in the connecting rod end at the crankshaft.

·        If there is no play is in the connecting rod after all the above have been checked and they are tight it is possible that the connecting rod is not running parallel to the floor as called for in the assembly manual Step 11.

·        Check Step 11 again.

·        Sometimes when the shifter is not sitting on all four wheels it will set up a noisy harmonic. Try changing positions in the stall.

Symptom: I hear a squeaking sound when the machine is in operation.

·        Put a drop or two of 30 weight oil on both tie rod ends

·        If squeaking persists put a drop or two of oil on all roller bearings.

Symptom: The material on the screen does not move off of the screen

·        Lower the rear screen roller to the bottom hole in the roller hanger.

·        Sometimes raising the output end of the machine causes the material to move more quickly. (it sounds impossible but it works)

Symptom: The material on the screen moves off of the screen to quickly

·        Make sure the machine is parked on a level spot on the stall floor.

·        Reverse the positioning of the machine from front to back. Each stall has a spot where the machine works best, find that spot and use it.

Symptom: The screen is moving slowly or not at all but it sounds like the motor is turning.

·        The motor to gearbox coupling assembly has probably got a fractured spline. This isn't as bad as a ruptured spleen and it can be
repaired by following the steps shown below:

1. Make sure power has been removed, unplug the power cord
   
2. Remove the control panel so you can see the motor
3. Remove the connecting rod from the screen tray assembly and set the screen aside
4. Remove the motor by removing the 4 nuts holding the motor to the motor mount
5. Put the motor on a well lit workbench or table
6. Refer to the pictures for the following steps.

    
Motor and gearbox still connected                spline, coupler, & allen wrench


 
              Motor spline removed

7. Separate the motor from the gearbox by removing the four 7/16 x 1 inch hex head screws
8. Look closely at the motor spline. It should be held tightly to the motor shaft at the FLAT SPOT on the shaft with an allen head set screw
9. Check both the motor spline and the gear box spline. Normally the gear box spline is fine but the motor spline has play.
    This play is usually caused by a hairline fracture in the pot metal spline right at the set screw hole.
    This causes the spline to slip off of the flat spot and the motor shaft to spin doing no real work.
10. Loosen the allen head set screw on the motor spline with a 1/8 inch allen wrench and remove the spline. Replace the spline with a new
      one and using the
      same allen head set screw tighten the spline onto the motor output shaft. Put a drop of blue Locktite on the set screw to keep it from backing out.
11. Put the plastic coupler on the gearbox spline and re-align the gearbox coupler with the motor spline fitting them tightly together then re-install the 4 screws
12. Refer to the pictures to make sure the gearbox and motor are oriented in the proper position before tightening all four screws.


   
 Gearbox with spline                                       Plastic coupler removed from gearbox